Telephoto Lenses

Created April 9, 1999 Last Modified: April 11, 1999

The general rule of thumb for any lens, to achieve a sharp image is that you always set the shutter speed faster than (or equal to) "one divided by the lens focal length". In the case of the 400mm lens, that means that you should always shoot at 1/400th of a second or faster.

The other alternative standard answer is to use a tripod. That particular lens is large enough that it has a tripod attaching point on the lens itself. (that can be rotated 90 degrees) With large lenses, you typically attach the lens to the tripod, and you then attach the camera to the lens. Otherwise, the weight of the lens would be hanging from the bayonet mount of the camera body, and that puts a high level of stress on the camera body. (that would be a very bad thing!)

When I am out hiking or whatever, I don't always carry my tripod. My tripod is fairly large, and fairly heavy, so I only carry it when I think that I am going to REALLY need it. I tend to carry two bodies and SEVERAL lenses a lot, so the weight of a big tripod is too much for normal situations. I shoot most things handheld, with some cheating occasionally. Again with long lenses, you support the lens first, the camera second.

Remember that any fixed solid immovable object can be used as a brace to help you steady yourself and the camera. I will brace the lens against a doorway, or a tree, or a rock, whatever is handy. Try to avoid using cars or bridges or anything that wobbles. I have used bridges, only to have a car drive over the bridge, and jiggle the whole world.

Typically when I am shooting wildlife, it is in fairly bright light, so I can run a fairly fast shutter speed, and still have a decent depth of field. Your preferences and how you want to shoot each photo determine what is the right amount of depth of field. Sometimes you want to show that wonderful mountain in the background, so you want f16 to capture all of the details. Other times you may have a gas station or a telephone pole in the background of a great Coyote picture that just ruins it. You either alter your location or you open up the aperture to blur out the background. Exactly how much background you want, and how to get it is something you just have to experiment with until you have your own "gut feel" for it. Textbooks are a good starting point, but personal experience will be the best teacher.

I recommend that if you are shooting hand held, start off using a shutter speed of 1/500th or faster to begin, but be sure to experiment with 1/250th occasionally. Once you get real good, you may be able to handhold it slower than that, but it is really difficult. Using a brace or a fixed object would allow you to slow down to about 1/125th of a second, but I would be very hesitant to suggest anything slower than that unless the camera is positioned VERY steady.

If you are using a tripod you can easily shoot at slower speeds, only limited by the steadyness of your tripod. Still, I would recommend 1/125th or 1/250th for static shots. Other things like flowing water, wind blown trees etc may force you to shoot faster to freeze the other stuff.

If the subject is moving fast, then the tripod is not of very much value, you can only use it as a stand between shots, or as you would a monopod.

A monopod is useful for moving things, and as a general brace. It helps you be a little bit steadier than handheld, but not as limiting as a tripod. A monopod typically limits camera travel up and down better than handheld, but it still can swing side to side easily. This is a good news bad news case. Try one and you will see.

An important key about shutter speeds: you can just shoot the entire world at 1/2000th of a second, and freeze everything (assuming you have enough light available) but you will not be happy with the results. (I know, I started that way) Pictures where everything is frozen look too static, too "staged" or posed.

I have pictures of Indy racecars that are technically nice but just boring. The car could be sitting still; you get no sense of what it is all about, no feel for the speed and power. The same shot taken at 1/250th, with the blurred tire lettering and blurred background, tells a story, and gives you the 'feel' for the speed of the car.

Also, real fast shutter speeds tend to not allow the film to get good color saturation. I can compare photos of the same car on successive laps at 1/1000th, 1/500th, 1/250th of a second. The colors and richness of the photos at the slower speeds is MUCH better.

The point is that I want the slowest shutter speed that I can use without blurring the subject. Again, the "vision" that you have in mind for the photo really dictates the specifics, I am just speaking in general terms. (maybe you want that blurring effect for your "vision".)

If you ever try to use a long lens for high speed things such as race cars or airplanes, I suggest that you practice panning with the subject first a few times until you can get yourself comfortable with the motion, and you can do the pan smoothly.

Of course, always make sure that the lens (and camera) are clean and protected from the elements. Always protect the front element on the lens, using caps and filters. On the Sigma 400, slide the built in lens hood out to help eliminate lens flare, unless you want that.

Try not to carry the big lens attached to the camera any more than you really need to capture your subjects. Again, the heavy lenses put a lot of strain on the mounting mechanisms. When they are attached, try to support the lens first, the camera second.

With wildlife, the one other suggestion I have is to shoot several shots. I have learned the hard way, that it is a good idea when you see a critter, to grab a shot. Then move in closer to get the better shot. I have had situations where I kept moving in closer for the "perfect shot", only to have the critter cut and run (or fly) leaving me with nothing. On other occasions, I have taken a long shot, then worked my way closer, shooting several shots from varying distances, giving me a variety of pictures. I highly recommend this method.

I recommend spot metering with wildlife shots. You want the subject properly exposed, who cares if the shadows off to one side have no visible detail, the subject is what matters. Cameras average over the entire scene normally, but with the spotmeter, you can expose for the primary subject. This is a very good thing.

With all photography, it is important that you squeeze the shutter smoothly (just like shooting a gun) not a rapid jolt. You want to make sure that you don't jiggle the camera by pressing hard and quick on the shutter release. Sometimes you need to hurry before the Bobcat disappears, but if you make a conscious effort on every picture to be smooth, then it will become automatic. Then when you come around a corner and find yourself face to snout with a red Fox, you will get a good clean quick shot before he bolts and runs. (I didn't, and I still kick myself)

I could get into things like approaching from downwind so they don't smell you, and about being very quiet, but you know those things, and usually you have no choice on such things.

Just go out and experiment. Have some fun, get some great images. I love long lenses, they are my favorites. I like the compression that they give, and I like the control that you can have over the subject. Try different things, don't be afraid to fail.

I am a firm believer in trying things, if they fail, take the time to figure out why, if they work, try to figure out why and do it again, only better. Too many people try something, and then if it doesn't work the way they expect, they blame the camera, and never try it again.

Feedback or comments? Mail to: John Schultheis /